Makeup Gourmet® December 2003 Newsletter The Moods of Makeup Part 1: Understanding Color This newsletter is the first part of an ongoing series of excerpts from my next book: RECIPES FOR STYLE: The Makeup Cookbook for Every Look. At the end of this article is a link to my Holiday Special Makeup Gourmet Brush set. The Moods of Makeup Part 1: Understanding Color By Chris Scott, The Makeup Gourmet Everyone likes their food seasoned differently. Some prefer to allow the natural flavors of the ingredients to come through, as in Japanese cooking - mild yet satisfying. Others try to balance the natural flavors with complementary spices and seasonings, as in Italian foods. Still others love to impress upon a dish a strong signature flavor, bold and dramatic to the taste buds, as for example in Thai foods. The seasoning analogy applies just as well to the three basic styles of makeup application: natural, finished, and dramatic. Which style you choose each time you pick up your makeup brush depends entirely on your mood. But whatever your choice, creating the right effect depends on striking a good balance of your makeup with your natural color intensity and/or the color intensity of your wardrobe. Next month we'll discuss the three different "seasonings" of makeup; this month we examine the all-important issue of choosing the right color palette for you. Your Natural Color Intensity Before you choose makeup colors to enhance your face, you should understand its natural color intensity without makeup. There are three factors to consider: hair, skin, and eye color intensity. In each of these categories, the natural color intensities are low/light, medium, or high/dark. First, let's consider hair. If your hair is blond, light gray, white, or any other color with similar depth, your hair color intensity is low/light. If your hair is black, dark brown or any color with similar depth, your hair color intensity is high/dark. All other colors between these two extremes are considered medium. This same formula applies to eyes and skin. If your eyes or skin are light, they are low/light intensity; if they're dark, they are high/dark intensity. Anything in between these two extremes is considered medium intensity. "Eye color" refers to the center of the eyeball that surrounds the pupil. When considering eye color intensity, you must look at the depth of value of your eye color. If your eyes are a pale blue or light green, they are low/light intensity; if a deeper blue or green, they are a medium intensity. It's important to remember that any shade of eye color can have more than one intensity. Do not assume that all blue eyes are low intensity and all brown eyes are high intensity what shade of blue or brown are they? Try to judge the intensity of the color, not just the color itself. Before you choose makeup colors, know your natural color intensity and make a note of it (low/light, medium/high/dark): __________ Hair color intensity. __________ Skin color intensity. __________ Eye color intensity. The intensity of color you choose to wear will dictate the natural, finished or dramatic effect you are attempting to create. When designing a look for yourself, keep these guidelines in mind:
Luckily, you have a big clue in your closet. Your Wardrobe Color Intensity and Range The other part of the equation to factor in is your wardrobe. Since what you wear usually covers 80% of your body, it is important to incorporate your wardrobe colors in your makeup color choices. You may wear different wardrobe pieces throughout the changing seasons, depending on where you live. Keep in mind the texture of the fabric you prefer. Are you a quilted person? Do you prefer fabrics with a flat finish, or those that reflect light? Your makeup should match the matte or reflective quality of your wardrobe. What is the difference between warm and cool colors? Some colors have more of a yellow base warm, like the sun whereas others have more of a blue base cool, like water. There is also another family of colors called neutrals, based on a balance of yellow and blue; these are appropriate with any wardrobe. In creating a balanced color story between your face and body, it is important to try to work within one of these color "families" for each look. Wardrobe and makeup color choices can be put into four categories:
Today's hairstyles will sometimes bring a dominant color into the picture, like bright red or purple burgundy. If you have a more extreme hair color, by all means find makeup colors that work together with it. In my experience, regardless of the wardrobe color choice, if the hair color is extremely dominant (in a conventional or non-conventional way), it is best to use the hair color, rather than your wardrobe, as a guide to your makeup color choice. As you apply makeup, it's important to constantly ask yourself these questions:
About Chris: Chris Scott, makeup artist, author, instructor, media personality and theater producer has worked in all aspects of makeup for 20 years. His television persona, the Makeup Gourmet, appears on network television teaching makeup Recipes for Style. His book, Cosmetic Counter Survival Guide, How to Buy the Right Skincare and Makeup, has been featured on ABC, CBS NBC and UPN. His video series; Makeup Gourmet: Recipes for Style released its first edition in December 2002. His syndicated monthly columns on seasonal Health & Beauty topics and consumer information are featured on Radio station websites. He specializes in articulate information, artistry training, consumer education and personalized application. He provides professional makeup services to the fashion, film, television, print, video, entertainment and retail industries. You can contact Chris directly at: Chris Scott 1597 Dolores Street San Francisco, CA 94110 chris@makeupgourmet.com Tel/Fax(415) 648-3073 Mobile (415) 846-1597 Return to press kit page |