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Chris Scott
Makeup Gourmet®
Microdermabrasion: The Home Version


Microdermabrasion: The Home Version



“Some women give themselves a home permanent…and after they’ve finished, they have to stay home…permanent” (Steve Allen, ”Bigger Than a Breadbox). This was my reaction when I saw microdermabrasion “machines” for sale in the cosmetic department. I visualized women and men mercilessly trying to sand down even the finest line until bleeding all in the name of advanced skincare technology. Fortunately, this is not possible with the new “microdermabrasion” products available at the cosmetic counter. So what are these new microdermabrasion products and what do they do?

First let me remind you, (or inform you) about what is exactly microdermabrasion. Microdermabrasion is a treatment that has been used successfully in Europe since the late 1980’s and has been available in the USA since December 1996. It is an effective, safe form of gentle exfoliation using inert corundum (aluminum oxide) crystals to remove dead and/or damaged skin cells and improve the skins’ appearance, resulting in more youthful skin.

The machine used to deliver these exfoliating crystals is precise and requires at minimum an estheticians application, and if you want to work deeper than the epidermis (outermost layer of skin) that requires a doctor, usually a dermatologist.

I talked to Dr. Kathy Fields (who has her own microdermabrasion paste on the market under her brand name, Rodan & Fields) to get a medical explanation on the difference between what happens in her office and what happens to the consumer buying this product at the retail level. Here’s what I learned. I already knew that the epidermis renewed itself every 30 days or so. However, after age 40, depending on lifestyle and good ole’ genetics, that renewal rate can slow to 60 DAYS. Yikes! That means that the surface layer of your skin that is composed of dead skin (called the stratum corneum) can be dead for 60 days. No good. After a period of time without proper exfoliation maintenance, the dead layer gets thicker and the living layer gets thinner. No good again.

Professional microdermabrasion exfoliates away the stratum corneum to reveal the much more vibrant living skin cells and to promote cellular regeneration. In essence, making your skin act like it did when it was younger. Your skin has no qualms with working harder; you only have to give it a reason. Microdermabrasion provides that reason. This procedure can also exfoliate down to the middle layer of skin (dermis). This depth of microdermabrasion treats damaged cells such as age/dark spots and acne scars. It also can reduce the appearance of lines by thinning the skin.

What the microdermabrasion products in the store are doing are providing us, the consumer, with a “System of Exfoliation” (my quotes). No longer are we sold a tube of exfoliation cream and told to use it 3 X week just because. Instead we are given microdermabrasion crystals, specific instructions about where to put the crystals, in which direction to apply it, how long to use it, and how to better care for our skin after it has been exfoliated. By keeping the stratum corneum off our face with a “System of Exfoliation”, our skin will always look its most vibrant and will be regenerating new skin cells at an optimum level. This is what the newest line of home microdermabrasion products can promise to do.

So the difference is: Professional microdermabrasion (administered by doctor or esthetician) removes the stratum corneum and can also remove living skin cells in the epidermis to correct damaged skin cells (dark spots, acne scars) and the appearance of lines and pore size. The home microdermabrasion systems provide a system to effectively exfoliate the stratum corneum only using microdermabrasion crystals.

Keeping the dead skin cells off our face and boosting the replenishment of new skin cells is a major part of maintaining healthy, young looking skin. These “Systems of Exfoliation” will provide us with the means to maintain a better looking skin.

Here are three examples of the new microdermabrasion products available at the counter.

Rodan & Fields RADIANT Microdermabrasion Paste Finger apply for one minute. Comes with complimentary products to use before and after the exfoliant, all conveniently numbered. Available at Nordstrom, Bergdorf Goodman, Fred Sega

Prescriptives Dermapolish System Finger apply. Comes with timer to insure proper time spent and after products to calm and moisturize the skin. Available at most Department and Specialty store cosmetic departments

DermaNew Personal Microdermabrasion System Handheld, 2-speed vibrating device with many attachments for face and body, even an acupressure attachment! Available at Nordstrom, Macy’s Here’s to happy shining skin!

About Chris: Chris Scott, makeup artist, author, instructor, media personality and theater producer has worked in all aspects of makeup for 20 years. His television persona, the Makeup Gourmet, appears on network television teaching makeup Recipes for Style. His book, Cosmetic Counter Survival Guide, How to Buy the Right Skincare and Makeup, has been featured on ABC, CBS NBC and UPN. His video series; Makeup Gourmet: Recipes for Style released its first edition in December 2002. His syndicated monthly columns on seasonal Health & Beauty topics and consumer information are featured on Radio station websites. He specializes in articulate information, artistry training, consumer education and personalized application. He provides professional makeup services to the fashion, film, television, print, video, entertainment and retail industries. You can contact Chris directly at:

Chris Scott
1597 Dolores Street
San Francisco, CA 94110
chris@makeupgourmet.com
Tel/Fax(415) 648-3073   Mobile (415) 846-1597

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