Makeup Gourmet® January 2004 Newsletter The Moods of Makeup Part 2: Choosing Your Style This newsletter is the first part of an ongoing series of excerpts from my next book: RECIPES FOR STYLE: The Makeup Cookbook for Every Look. The Moods of Makeup Part 2: Choosing Your Style By Chris Scott, The Makeup Gourmet In the last column, we looked at the critical foundation of any successful look — picking the right colors for you. Now it's time to look at the different ways you can put those colors to work to achieve a natural, finished, or dramatic effect. Soft & Natural Makeup Let's first agree that, since we're here to talk about makeup, even "natural" does not mean "no makeup." With that settled, just what is natural makeup? In essence, it is makeup that is never or hardly noticed before the natural features. With any makeup application, highlighting natural features such as beautiful skin, glowing eyes and soft lips is the priority. The degree to which someone already has these features already informs the amount of makeup necessary to complete this goal. Especially with natural makeup, it is vital to neutralize what I refer to as "distractions." Distractions are those characteristics of your face that attract more attention than you'd like — for example, dark under-eye circles, blemishes, red or ruddy skin, dark sunspots, scars, and uneven skin tone. I say neutralize because that describes the amount of firepower you want to use — you do not want to obliterate the distractions, or else your makeup becomes more about what you don't want people to see than what you want them to see. The goal is to neutralize the distractions and gently emphasize the features. All makeup application requires striking a balance and compromise between the distractions you do not want people to notice and the features you do want them to notice. In natural makeup, this idea is most subtle, and you will need to analyze for yourself what is the best balance to achieve a "natural" look. Another point to consider is that just wearing a clear lip gloss does not constitute a natural makeup — in fact, it becomes a trendy makeup by highlighting one feature over another. As my mentor once said to me in a moment of ironic clarity, "It takes a lot of makeup to look natural." His point was that every feature needs to be properly balanced with the other so that the makeup is never obvious and isolated on one part of the face. The goal is always to deftly apply the right balance of makeup to gently enhance, but never impose upon, your face. In closing, if natural makeup were a person, she would always be standing directly behind you. Her presence would be felt, but only after you were noticed. Finished & Professional Makeup This, in my opinion, is the most beautiful application, and most difficult to achieve. It is in this look that you will master the art of you — not just your makeup, but head-to-toe you. Because everyone has a different coloring equation, the ingredients vary to achieve this look — but the rules never vary:
The beauty of finished makeup is that you can never put your finger on one aspect of the person's look that really strikes you. Instead, you notice the complete person and can't help but comment, either to yourself or aloud, how good they look. This is because they have created a balance in their makeup so you notice them first. This is not particularly easy to do without some guidelines. Here are some balanced/finished makeup guidelines to consider.
To decide what makeup colors to wear, coordinate them with your wardrobe, hair, skin and eye color intensity, as explained in the last column. Intensity refers to the lightness or darkness of a color: low intensity is a very light color, high intensity is a very dark color, and medium intensity is somewhere in between. It is just as important to know what intensity is appropriate for you as it is to know what type of color is best. Color is generally dictated by fashion (what you wear). Intensity of color is dictated by your natural color intensity. Rule#3 — Apply your makeup with an intensity equal to or slightly higher than your own features' intensity. A balanced makeup takes all the aforementioned criteria (wardrobe, eye color, hair color, skin color) into consideration and strikes a harmony among them all. This is why I find finished makeup the most beautiful, the most rewarding, and the most difficult. It weighs so many factors and, if this philosophy is new to you, takes some practice to incorporate all the elements into one balanced look. To achieve the finished look, you realign all the elements of your external person to a new convergence. However, once you've accomplished this, you have an ultimate grasp on a sense of timeless style. In closing, if balanced makeup were a person, she would be your twin, standing right next to you. Or for those who believe, she is actually a ghost, standing exactly where you are. In either case her presence would be noticed at exactly the same time you are noticed, never one before the other. Dramatic & Glamourous Makeup Since we all want to be gourmets at our makeup application, let us not take the easy road to dramatic makeup. How often is dramatic makeup described as "bad" makeup? Yes, it may be dramatically applied; however, the person wearing it is the lesser for it. Too-red lips or over-blushed cheeks appear more clown-like than lady-like. This is not our goal. Dramatic makeup is designed to elicit desired responses, such as "sexy," "hot," "beautiful," "stunning," "gorgeous." These are all good things to be called. What is dramatic makeup? It is high contrast in intensities. Why are the most dramatic affairs called "black-tie"? Because black on white is dramatic due to its high contrast in intensities, and so it is with dramatic makeup. The liberating aspect of dramatic makeup is that there is no end to the variations possible. Just browse any fashion magazine to see the depth of dramatic makeup styles being shown at any given time. This means that anything goes with dramatic makeup. I just want you to be able to achieve "anything goes" makeup that is considered "hot" and not clown-like. It is impossible to list the endless types of dramatic makeup. Instead, let me list elements of dramatic makeup, and you can pick and choose from them to help create the dramatic look of your choosing. Skin
In order to carry off the right effect, applying dramatic makeup requires a disciplined application that respects the makeup and the face it is going upon. Ultimately, the purpose of dramatic makeup is to be noticed in an intense way. You want people to feel something visceral when they see you. Dramatic makeup must evoke a response from the viewer, or it is ineffective. Yes, it is true that even bad makeup can evoke a response. The point is, what response do you want, and how do you get it? Also, it is important to use makeup to feel a certain way. Often, actors find their character as the makeup goes on. The spirit of the makeup enters you as you apply it — this is the power of makeup. Find out through experimentation how different makeup applications make you feel, and call upon those styles of application when you need them. In closing, if dramatic makeup were a person, she would stand directly in front of you. We would see her long before we see you. She gets all the attention, and that's all there is to it. About Chris: Chris Scott, makeup artist, author, instructor, media personality and theater producer has worked in all aspects of makeup for 20 years. His television persona, the Makeup Gourmet, appears on network television teaching makeup Recipes for Style. His book, Cosmetic Counter Survival Guide, How to Buy the Right Skincare and Makeup, has been featured on ABC, CBS NBC and UPN. His video series; Makeup Gourmet: Recipes for Style released its first edition in December 2002. His syndicated monthly columns on seasonal Health & Beauty topics and consumer information are featured on Radio station websites. He specializes in articulate information, artistry training, consumer education and personalized application. He provides professional makeup services to the fashion, film, television, print, video, entertainment and retail industries. You can contact Chris directly at: Chris Scott 1597 Dolores Street San Francisco, CA 94110 chris@makeupgourmet.com Tel/Fax(415) 648-3073 Mobile (415) 846-1597 Return to press kit page |